As you would expect with a country that has witnessed the rise and fall of many civilisations, Spain has much to offer in terms of history and culture and it is fair to say that wine is a firm part of its traditions today just as much as ever. It was the Phonecians who first founded a trading post in Cadiz around 1100 BC, although archaeologists have estimated that grapes were first cultivated sometime between 4000 BC and 3000 BC. Of course, it was the Romans who were to play the most significant role in the trading of Spanish wine.
Today, Spain is the third largest producer of wine in the world, famed for its rich red Riojas, Ports and Sherries, and it has the largest area of land dedicated to viticulture in the world. The hot climate that is unaffected by a sea breeze means that Spanish vines are less prone to some of the more common threats of other wine growing countries such as downy mildew and Botrytis cinerea (plant funguses). However, excessive heat can of course bring its own problems and many Spanish harvests have fallen victim to droughts and poor fertility; Spanish vineyard owners have learnt to spread out the vines to reduce absorption of nutrients from shared ground in a sort of ‘damage control’ prevention.
The most widely planted grape is the Airén, a white wine grape renowned for its hardiness. It is primarily found throughout central Spain and was the primary grape for Spanish brandy for many years. Unfortunately, the Airén has a reputation of producing mediocre wine, budget bottles that tend to be sold in bulk, but there has certainly been a rejuvenation in wine making techniques in an effort to produce higher quality white wines. Central Spain really only has one significant wine producing region which is La Mancha, widely regarded as the largest single wine region in the world. Enclosed by a mountainous range, the area is prone to extreme temperatures and drought. La Mancha is famed for its red wines but there are some excellent whites too such as the Palacio Robledo Sauvignon Blanc and the Condes Carpallo – examples of a renaissance in wine making methods and the technology used.
Northern Spain has a much stronger tradition in white wine, but again, the region finds itself fighting prejudices of mediocre tasting products such as the white Rioja which many people seem all too quick to give an opinion on. However, there are some real gems to be found in this province, particularly in Galicia, the most north-westerly part of Spain. The wines are made from the Albariño grape and are cold-fermented to retain that crisp freshness. Somontano is another area in the North West to excel in new white wines; the area has embraced more international grape varieties such as Gewurtztraminer and Chardonnay and is also home to some of Spain’s top wineries including Enate and Viñas del Vero.
It is the enthusiasm with which the Spanish strive to produce quality white wines that should endear people to try them out and there is a certain bravery about any region that attempts to make a new wine work when its traditions and successes are rooted in another. The Mediterranean region of Penedès, south of Barcelona, is famed for its sparkling Cavas and sumptuous red wines and there are even a great number of rosé wines from the region; but it is only in the last few years that the Penedès has begun producing quality whites. The answer seems to lie with the combining of traditionally used grape varietals such as Parellada and Macabeu, with popular international grapes such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurztraminer. Miguel Torres, Albet I Noya and Raventos are just some of the producers who have had great successes with these methods.
One of the other main white wine producing regions of Spain is the Basque Country, primarily Txacoli which is made in all three of the Basque Provinces; Vizcaya, Álava and Guipúzcopoa. The Txacoli is generally a first choice of wine to accompany fish dishes for the many tourists that flock to the areas to experience the famous seafood restaurants, but is otherwise regarded as an aperitif wine. However, Txacoli has become a symbol of the Basque country, part of its heritage and identity and given the region’s desire for independence from the rest of Spain, it seems only fair to consider this wine as exceptional too.
In conclusion then it would seem that good Spanish whites are still fairly new, but for a country that has an excellent tradition in reds, sherry and ports, it would be harsh to presume that the Spanish cannot deliver. With such a long and traditional history in wine making methods, the Spanish seem to have acknowledged that good whites require more contemporary approaches and are still in the early stages of finding a perfect formula – yet to really find their feet. However, in terms of ‘ones to watch out for’, it surely won’t be long before this wine loving country becomes the inspiration to other white wine making regions around the world; consider it a new wave of which you could be one of the first to experience.
