Alexander is a writer and a wine drinker; he is using the former occupation to increase his appreciation of the latter.
Read more about Alexander Velky and see other articles by this author.
Due to a unique combination of cultivated contrariness and effortless ignorance, the nuances of wine fashion have passed me by over the years (just as have the nuances of fashion as it affects any other arena of life).
So the notion of Riesling being “back” is not one I can relate to: it’s always been a favourite of mine. A truly unique grape and one that is as subject to terroir as is my other favourite unfashionable white grape, the humble Chardonnay.
A fantastic example of the versatility of the grape is this, Gapsted‘s Victorian Alps Riesling; with much of the sweet rustic charm of its spiritual home of Germany, but also a touch of sun-kissed fruitiness you’d hope for from an Australian white: it’s floral and perfumed, sweet and lilting on the tongue and as refreshing as the crystal clear streams the grapes apparently grow by. Not as sparkling and tingling as this grape can be, but no less refreshing for that.
Victoria’s High Country possibly breaches some copyright law by ascribing the adjective ‘alpine‘ to itself, but that’s what it does, so anyone half-reading the label could be confused into thinking this was an Austrian Riesling.
One likes to presume one would detect an other-worldliness to the flavour which would make it impossible for the drink to pass as European, but a blindfold can do all sorts of things to your senses. (Particularly sight, which it mainly cancels out, f.y.i.)
That there is anywhere cool and ‘alpine’ enough to grow such a lovely bottle of Riesling in Australia is news to me, but Gapsted’s take on the grape is soft, subtle and splendiferously suppable.
Get in there and order while it’s still available: £8.99 from FindWine.co.uk.
Picture by Victoria Keeble.
