Alexander is a writer and a wine drinker; he is using the former occupation to increase his appreciation of the latter.
Read more about Alexander Velky and see other articles by this author.
Chardonnay is a very versatile greape.
Its ubiquity tells of its comparative simplicity to grow and its unfortunate status as the 1990s wine of choice – favourite beverage of Bridget Jones and favourite name for the firstborn females of WAGs – has left it something of an unfashionable drink in this day and age.
For those who know a little bit about wine it is often the first opinion formed: they’ll drink any white wine except Chardonnay.
This is, of course, ridiculous, as there is such a vast spectrum of flavours under the Chardonnay umbrella that to like or dislike Chardonnay can only really mean to like or dislike white wine. Personally, I love it.
My favourite Chardonnays have tended to come from the New World: either buttery, golden Californian numbers or their thick, tropical Antipodean counterparts.
Terroir, apparently, has a major part to play in the formation of flavour in a Chardonnay. It’s called a ‘neutral’ grape because of this.
McGuigan‘s South Eastern Australian take on the well-travelled grape is among the finer I’ve tried. It’s not as rich as some of my favourites, but it’s certainly full-flavoured and that’s what I look for in a Chardonnay.
It has a slightly musty smell – like damp rags or mildew – which might sound a bit unpleasant but gives me the same thrill of anticipation as a suitably mouldy smelling cheese; for these are the white wines I tend to enjoy. Its flavour is surprisingly fruit-filled: at once tropical and fruity and smoky.
There’s a hint of oak, too, but not a thwack around the chops; this isn’t as blunt and bullying as Australian whites can be: it’s a nice balance, and a good starting point if you find yourself – as I often find myself – trying to win over some doubters to this most enjoyable grape.
Available at a more-than-reasonable £6.86 from Majestic.
Photograph by Victoria Keeble.
