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Pamona No 11 2007 Pinot Noir Rosé

This is so different to the last Pinot Noir Rosé I tried
Posted 25th July 2011        
     

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This is so different to the last Pinot Noir Rosé I tried that it’s almost hard to believe it’s the same beast.

But I suppose a few hundred miles and a slightly different cultivation/growing/winemaking technique can make all the difference.

And the terroir, perhaps, too: this bottle doesn’t give much away to Google, (other than that it has an almost-namesake in Illinois, USA), but it seems to be a product of West Germany.

Specifically, it seems to hail from the Mosel region (if my map-reading skills are up to scratch), which is internationally acclaimed mainly for its flowery, low-alcohol Riesling wines. This is closer to Riesling than Sauvignon Blanc, if one had to compare it to a completely different white grape; I only say this because the sharp, crisp edge that dominated the Sancerre Pinot Noir Rosé is pretty much entirely absent here. There’s a little more colour (and therefore skin) which would lead me to believe it had more exposure to the tannins therein and might be a little sharper, but that just goes to show what I know about rosé.

Contrary to its very boiled-sweety appearance, this wine was reminiscent of hedgerows and wildflowers in aroma, of country lanes and – yes – even farmyards. A world away from the biscuity Champagne-stylings of the French one. In fact, it reminded me a little of the last German (non-rosé) Pinot Noir I tried: not a million miles away from a Burgundy, cherry-rich and low on alcohol.

Small wonder, perhaps, as the vineyards are less than two hours apart by car.

It had less spice in its body than that wine, though, and much more residual sugariness; in fact, its chief flavours were cherries (some regular, some glacé) and (believe it or not) red grapes – with only a hint of that pleasant sourness that usually comes from the alcohol and tannins.

In terms of a spiritual home, though – knowing little about its actual home, as I do – I could definitely place this alongside Alsace Rieslings and Gewurztraminers, with its heavy, heady, floral aromas and light, sweet, delicate taste. The finish barely lasts three seconds, and this is definitely a wine for those who appreciate the off-dry Northeast French and German wines. I count myself among their number, fortunately.

I can’t imagine how much longer it could last in the bottle – 2007 seems like a long time ago for a Pinot Noir rosé, but I couldn’t detect anything wrong with it, and it put on a good show for the under-ten-pounds asking price.

Available from J Wadsworth of St. Ives, and possibly via mail order, if you can find it on a website, which I can’t.

     

One Response to “Pamona No 11 2007 Pinot Noir Rosé”

  1. […] is the second Mosel Pinot Noir I’ve had in as many weeks, and although the other was a rosé, there’s definitely a good deal shared between […]

Meet the Author:
Alexander Velky
Alexander grew up on Anglesey, almost as far away from civilization as he’d have liked. He studied English at university and subsequently moved to Prague to teach it to Czech people for just long enough that he could say he’d done that. He then returned to the UK to do an MA in Professional Writing, and later moved to London by accident and worked in the music industry for a while. His interest in wine has been developing throughout. He took the WSET Intermediate exam, for which he was rewarded with a certificate and a pin badge, but he probably won't bother doing any more. He now lives in Pembrokeshire with his wife and daughter. He writes, and drinks, for a living. You can follow him on Twitter if that's how you choose to spend your time. Photograph by Léonie Keeble