You have to feel a little bit sorry for the Chenin Blanc, particularly when it is often described as being a ‘mutant of the Pineau d’Anuis’ and is frequently excluded from the ‘premier list’ of many wine guides. However, with such a long history and versatility in the kind of wines that it can produce, one has to admire the resilience of the Chenin Blanc and give credit where it is deservedly due.
With its earliest records dating back to the ninth century, it would seem that the Chenin first appeared in Anjou, France and was later grown in the Loire valley and the Rhone where it continues to thrive for today’s modern markets. Its French roots are recognised internationally but with its ability to age well, resistance to many diseases and malleability with various soils, the Chenin Blanc has become a huge asset to most ‘New World’ countries who have the required climate.
Almost one third of the vines in South Africa (where it is frequently referred to as ‘Steen’) are Chenin Blanc, it is the third most widely planted white wine grape in California, whilst Australia has almost 1,500 acres of it. It is planted as Pinot Blanco in Brazil, Mexico, Chile and Argentina, where there are over some 10,000 acres of it and whilst all of these countries use it to produce crisp dry white wines, the Chenin blanc is perhaps most noted for its use in sparkling wines, desert wines and brandy.
Anjou is perhaps recognised as the region that favours the dry wine with flavours of apples and quince, whilst the neighbouring region of Vouvray produces an off-dry style with hints of honey and an almost floral flavour once it has aged. This confirms that when grown in cooler areas, the juice of the Chenin Blanc may be sweet but it is also high in acid and this can produce a spectrum of flavours depending on when the grapes are harvested. Soil type is clearly the defining factor in the resulting style; the Loire region possesses a heavier, clay-based soil which is better for fostering late ripening, sweet Chenins. Chalky, limestone-based soils produce many of the lighter varietals.
Sweeter Chenins such as the Quarts de Chaume and Coteaux du Layon are perhaps more widely known than their drier contemporaries and this is certainly a nod to their value-for-money status. There is a mass market appeal for sweeter wines and the greatest are usually those that are unblended; however, it is not uncommon for the Chenin to be bottled with the Chardonnay, Colombard and Semillon, particularly when they hail from the new world countries who perhaps struggle to compete with the finely tuned tastes of the Anjou harvests.
Of all the regions in the world that cultivate the Chenin Blanc, it is perhaps America that gives it the least favourable reputation. The Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc grapes are undoubtedly favoured and it could be suggested that the Chenin Blanc is therefore rarely privileged with the best growing sites. The Californian climate tends to be much hotter than that of the French growing regions and this can result in blander wines – and lots of them. Sadly this mass-marketing has probably diminished the respectable reputation of the Chenin Blanc, however, it would be unfair to make prejudices about all American producers when there are some exceptional wines too. The Clarksberg AVA from the Northern end of California’s Central Valley is widely recognized for its quality and hopefully looks set to lead the way in a newly found respect of what can be achieved with Chenin Blanc.
Overall, it is perhaps fair to say that the Chenin Blanc is certainly a fighter, and whilst there are many massed produced wines that lack that desired kick, there is also a world of finer, more respectable wines blanketed by a negative reputation. It should be clear that this particular grape is possibly the most versatile and for that reason alone, people should be encouraged to keep trying it. Prices range from the ‘cheap and cheerful’ £3.99 – £8.99, but a good quality Chenin Blanc could easily fetch up to £15. Non vintage wines shouldn’t really be kept for longer than two years but for those that can afford the top quality sweet wines (expect to pay in excess of £20), why not pop them in the cellar for a while before making any final decisions?
Photo by chrisada.
