Muscadet – Melon de Bourgogne

Muscadet was discovered by farmers who bottled grape juice and left it over the winter months, returning to a pleasant wine to sip after a long and hot day’s work in the summer. Otherwise known as Melon de Bourgogne grape and often referred to simply as “melon” – Muscadet is a dry white wine and is the most prolifically produced variety from the vineyards surrounding the city of Nantes.

It is customary in France for AOC wines (Appellation D’Origine Controllée) to be named either according to their growing region or, as in Alsace, after their varietal. The appellation ‘Muscadet’ clearly slipped through the system’s net in 1937, as it refers to a characteristic of the wine produced by the melon grape varietal – a wine with a “musk-like taste’. There are three regional sub-appellations – Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine, a region of over 8000 hectares responsible for roughly 80% of production, Muscadet-Coteaux and Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu, recognised later in 1994.

Melon de Bourgogne was initially planted in the Loire sometime around the 17th century having arrived from the Burgundy region (hence the name), and conquered the Loire Valley vineyards after a freak bout of freezing weather eradicated most of the region’s vines in 1709. Influential Dutch traders encouraged its planting at this time and distilled most of it into eau de vie to trade in Northern Europe. It thrives in temperate climates and is hardy enough to withstand frosts, an essential virtue given its propensity to ripen early and therefore produce buds and flowers before the spring temperatures begin to rise. It also gives consistent high yields.

Most Muscadets on today’s market are produced “sur lie” meaning that, after fermentation, the wine is not racked off the lees at the bottom of the vat. The wine remaining in contact with the lees undergoes an interaction with these dead yeast cells which is called ‘autolysis’ and this adds complex yeasty characteristics which are sought after, as opposed to wines bottled straight from the vat without racking that retain some of the carbon dioxide bubbles from fermentation to give a slightly sparkling variety. A mention of “sur lie” on a label indicates that a wine has remained over its lees at least until the 1st of March after its harvest prior to being bottled. Muscadet generally tastes of grapefruit with mineral overtones. You can also expect to taste variances of apple, peach, menthol and herbs. It’s a great drink to open up as a chilled apéritif but also pairs well with fish and shellfish, although older vintages complement chicken and pork brilliantly. One of the most perfect matches is chilled Muscadet with oysters. Muscadets should generally be drunk within three years of production.

hilst having an old-fashioned reputation, Muscadet has been undergoing a revival in the past couple of years. It’s clean, light style contrasts markedly with exuberant new world wines and offers a refreshing alternative in a market dominated by overt flavours. This can be illustrated by the multitude of hugely aromatic Sauvignon Blancs on the market today all trying to copy the style of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. This is ironic considering that historically Sauvignon Blanc was a very light, tangy, grassy style of wine in its French heartland. Muscadet has spearheaded a popular revival for pure, simple, fresh, white wines that fit with minimalist food styles.

The Loire Valley offers a huge climatic contrast from East to West. At the Western end near to Nantes the climate is very maritime and humid and has a lower proportion of degree days, which are the days that directly influence the ripening of the grapes on the vine. This has meant that producers must be wary of mould and mildew problems on the grape bunches which has led to higher training of vines for circulation. The lower number of degree days has also resulted in lower sugar levels at harvest which account for the traditionally low levels of alcohol – another bonus in this health conscious age. Whilst Sancérre and Pouilly-Fumé wines, both based upon the Sauvignon Blanc style and originating from the Eastern end of the valley, have dominated international recognition in the past, they have lost out in recent years to New World wines. This has focussed attention once more on the uniqueness of the Muscadet grape and propelled this variety to the forefront of the region’s wines.

Only a few years ago this famous wine was on its knees – perceived as being old-fashioned and out of touch with the massively-fruited wines from the new world. However, tastes change and the sameness that has pervaded the wines from the new world has set consumers searching for new tastes and many have settled on this old favourite.